International

La Bicycletta June 2013

The sun.  A rare commodity in England these days – but much more prevalent in Spain.  I opened the door of my bungalow to be greeted by it shining in the sky above me, and sat down at my table under the pine trees.  A cup of tila in hand, a bowl of cereal and a ‘Buenos dias’ from my neighbour.  Perfecto.

Now for the bicycle.  This had been on my mind for a month or so before arriving.  Where to get one?  ‘There’s a shop called ‘Kandani” my friend said, ‘you could speak to them’ .  Someone else told me: ‘The hotel down the road near the beach always has loads of bikes outside it, you could go ask them if they’re for hire’.  I headed towards it.  On the way I saw a big white van with ‘Kandani’ written on the side.  There was no one in it.  I passed by and looked around for signs of bikeness.  Sure enough a few metres down I turned to the left and saw a man at the door of a villa holding two cycles talking to a couple of guys.  ‘Perdon’ I said.  ‘Are you ‘Kandani’ the bike man?’.  ‘Yes! I am coming!’ he shouted as he left his clients and walked towards me.

Vicente gave me a lift to the local town and we began to look at the options. After some deliberation, I thought best to sleep on it and decide whether or not to purchase in the morning.  Dani  – el jefe – offered me a lift back to my home and that was that.

Dinner the same evening was an international affair, two Italians, one American, a Croatian, a French lady, an Argentinian and me.  We dined on freshly dug potatoes, salad, garbanzos, and for dessert strawberries and a soupcon of pastry.  We sat in the cool evening air under the stars and as more and more sweaters were applied the party started to break up.

Lucia approached.  ‘I hear you’re looking for a bicycle’.  ‘Yes, I am!’ ‘Well I have one you’re welcome to borrow for the duration of your stay if you like?  It’s a good bike’.  I was over joyed and thanked her profusely.

The next morning I headed up to see my new loan:  She’s a beauty, a little neglected – just one gear, but tough and she has a good heart – I can tell.  A trip to  the bike shop followed, resulting in handlebar grips and a delicious new padded saddle.  The old locks removed and a new lock purchased later, off I went to the market.

I cycled in the sunshine with the wind in my face (a bit too much wind in my face actually) uphill and past red earth fields with gentle coloured flowers here and there, farmers tilling the land, a greenhouse full of waiting- to- ripen tomatoes, an outside market selling fresh vegetables and arrived at the turn off to my destination.

A long queue of traffic stretched before me comprising cars, buses and the odd white van.  No problemo.  I almost smiled;  I felt so smug.  I cycled up the side regardless, with thoughts of the cafe that awaited me, and my newly found sense of freedom to spur me on.

Yeah Baby

ImageIt’s been a while since I saw Le Sexy Beast, and Saturday found me on a flight to Ibiza determined to ‘make his acquaintance’ once more that night at Pacha.  Did Bob still have it, I wondered, and more importantly – how was his hair these days?

Successfully boarding my Ryanair flight without recourse to unpacking my luggage or being charged extra for anything, I was delighted, once airbourne to be given a chance to read their new magazine.  Very slick – without losing any of that quintessential Ryanairness; the streetwise attitude, the smattering of typos and the friendly ‘I’m your best mate’ chat crossed with a knack of being written like the authors have just learnt English and are still learning..

It’s a heady mixture.  But a seedling of fondness for that most ubiquitous of airlines was planted as I flicked through, for on practically every other page there was an advert for some Irish business or other:  Just when the Emerald Isle needs it most, Mr O’Leary puts his money where his heart is.

At 2.30am I found myself in Pacha, pinned up against a wall amongst the thousands of people who had come to hear Dimitri from Paris and Mr Sinclar ply their trade. Dancing was tough given the limited space but a gold sequinned top will always convey you mean business.

Dimitri, with a Brains from Thunderbirds look, was on the decks.  His name indicates his nationality – and the playlist did too with a not insignificant smattering of some French tracks including Daft Punk. The recession seems to be doing strangely patriotic things to people, I thought.

A sudden flury on the balcony behind him caused a ripple of excitement through the already buoyant crowd. I looked up.  All I could see was the back of someone with long locks, the supplest leather jacket known to man and flashbulbs popping aplenty.

At exactly 4am, Bob Sinclar turned around to face the crowd from on high and descended the small flight of stairs to the DJ booth, kissed Dimitri four times, shrugged off his jacket and literally rolled up his sleeves.

He went heavy on the tunes to satisfy a young audience with a need to worship rather than dance, his face bent towards the decks intent on the job in hand.

Something had changed – was it me, or Bob?  Even now, from my birds eye view and unlimited VIP dance space at 5am, something failed to ignite. Was I the only one who wanted/craved a delicacy of touch, some genuine love and feeling through the music? I danced on regardless.

At precisely 7am, Bob threw his hands up in the air, put on his luxe leather jacket and ascended the steps.  A few people called for more… but I knew it was time to go home.

Ibiza rocks – or does it?

Hedonism vs joy.  Should there be a ‘vs’? Shouldn’t it be an ‘=’? But, it seems in Ibiza, ironically you can’t have both.  The music draws you back there but the quest for hedonism promotes a selfishishness that mars the joy the music can bring.

I wonder if there is something about the collective desire for a high that produces that effect – and what that means, as individually people are nice – charming even – like at Space:  ‘That was a great tune you just played’ I said to the DJ in El Salon at around 3am.  He put his arm around me and said in a Yorkshire accent, smiling ‘Oh!  I’m so glad you appreciated it – it’s one of my favourites’.  ‘Where did you find it?’ I said as I texted the name of the tune to myself.  ‘I search in basements all over the world for stuff – that’s what I do.  I found this in LA’.

At Blue Marlin as the sun went down, a woman in a short negligee drank champagne and danced as the man paying for it looked longingly at her and tried to kiss her.  In the VIP area everyone was laughing, but no one was really smiling. The guitarist and drummer on stage were superb and the music was uplifting in the sunshine but it seems that when it costs this much to have fun – the heart disappears.  Does it reflect society at large – the fact that people consider being able to spend obscene amounts of money the pinnacle of happiness and more is never enough?

I chatted to another gentleman of a certain age at the bar. ‘Do you come here often?’ I asked.  ‘Yeah, I come out a few times a year with my friends.  We stay in a mate’s villa’.  He told me where he lived in the UK and I said ‘I know, Beryl Cook lives there – doesn’t she?’ ‘Not sure’, he replied, ‘Heston does though – he’s a mate of mine, sometimes he comes out here with us’.  ‘That must be great; having someone who can cook in the party!’ I exclaimed, laughing.  ‘Yeah, he’ll rustle up a good Welsh rarebit if he’s pushed’ he replied.  ‘We do love it here but it is pricey – we spent £2k the other day on drinks and dinner for six at this place’.

I talked to Nate and Tory, friendly souls from Arizona and LA: ’24 hours to get here for us, but it’s worth it’ Tory said as she sipped her pink champagne sangria.

At the Defected closing party at Pacha as I enjoyed my favourite DJ – Bob Sinclar – from afar, I got chatting to Oliver – French and a DJ in St Tropez. He offered me a cigarette and a drink.  ‘You can’t smoke in here – can you?’  I said.  ‘I’m in Pacha, Ibiza, I can do anything’ he replied. I asked him how his ears were holding up – being a DJ. ‘I have a bit of tinnitus, that’s why I hang out at this bar – you can see everything but you’re not in the middle of it’. I talked to him about Bob. ‘Yeah, I know him; he’s a friend, we both have sons who are the same age; 13’.

I said goodbye and went up to the terrace to get a view.  Bob looked up as he mixed the CDs, intent on the job in hand – checking to see that he still had it I suspect. We went downstairs and I danced until he finished at 5am. The last song he played was ‘Love Generation’.  As with many of his tunes the melancholy riff tinged with nostalgia is the hook and one that always works – just think of Abba.  Everybody cheered as Bob thanked them and cited Pacha as ‘One of the best clubs in the world’.  But still, he never smiled.

I felt the music and the desire to have a good time but I missed the joy and the heart and I wondered where that had gone and why – and indeed if it had ever truly existed here. I thought about the lyrics of that song ‘We don’t have to take our clothes off, to have a good time, oh no’. Perhaps Bob should remix that old classic and bring us all back down to earth – in a good way.