Hjordis

On August 1, 2014March 30, 2015 By Conversations with StrangersIn Ibiza, Parties2 Comments

I bought a pen. In fact, I bought two – one for me and one for Hjordis, the lady I was about to meet. It turns out the Bic multicoloured pen of the 70’s has made a comeback in Ibiza and I could hardly contain my excitement on spotting one with Apple green, purple, turquoise and pink ink.

The newsagent in Vara de Rey has to be my favourite in the whole world. I turned in off the leafy Paseo, past the local guide books, newspaper stands, maps and various other paraphernalia. I spied the monthly women’s magazines; only in Spain do you find the best ever freebie gifts included with a copy of ‘Vogue’ or ‘Glamour’.

Switching my focus to the main event – a new notebook – I asked where they were. “Abajo, al final” the lady at the cash desk said pointing to the farthest corner of the store.

Fluorescent lime green, orange, cobalt blue soft covers, square ruled and just the right size, I claimed my booty and paid up.

The Blue Cactus offices were calm and quiet. Hjordis and I greeted each other and headed down to the square again.

Coffee was relaxed.

“Before I forget, let me give you a copy of the Sunday Times Style magazine.” I said, procuring a rather dog-eared one from my bag.

“There’s been a great response to the interview they did with me on my new guide book” she said. “A couple wrote to me from the UK saying they wanted to return to the island for the first time in 30 years after reading it. But, I didn’t want to come across as ‘I know everything about Ibiza’, you know? I wanted it to be from the heart.” “Well, you don’t need to worry about that” I said.

I asked her how the book was doing. “Really well, I think they have it in that newsagents – at the entrance” she said, pointing to my previous date. She told me she’d done all the illustrations and that working on it over the winter had been a labour of love.

“I’ll go and get one after this” I said. “No. Why don’t you come to the car with me – I’ll give you a copy and sign it – that’s a much nicer way to do it.”

Modesty is an underrated human quality; how refreshing to meet a genuinely talented lady who has it in spades.

For a copy of My Ibiza & Formentera 2014-15, buy it on the island, or contact hjordis@myibiza-guide.com

Atzaro, you know how to do it

On July 25, 2014December 4, 2014 By Conversations with StrangersIn Fashion, Food and drinks, Ibiza, Parties, Travel/vacationsLeave a comment

‘Twas between shows at the Atzaro Fashion Festival 10th Anniversary and I was taking a quick pit stop at Nick’s bar. Well, not ‘Nick’s bar’ exactly, but he’d promised me a Caipiroska earlier in the evening and having worked as a bartender for four years here, I figured he knew his stuff.

We started to talk sayings. “If a frog had a glass ass he would break it every time he jumped” Nick said. “That was one my grandfather used to tell me.” I thought about it for a second as I looked at him mixing my drink. “That looks like a strong one, Nick, I’m not sure it’s going to make it easy for me to have this conversation with you.” “Don’t worry you’ll be fine, dude – I got you.”

He did indeed, and I made my way back into fashion land revived. The music got louder. Time to get a place down by the ‘runway’….but what was this? I spotted a ubiquitous hat and had to investigate further. “Excuse me – but is that a Pharrell hat?” I asked. “Um, that’s the wrong thing to say – he’ll tell you he had it first” the gentleman’s lady friend said. “Exactly, I wore this hat in the ’80’s – it’s a Vivienne Westwood.” “Wow – now that’s significant Vintage” I said, snapping a shot.

A drone whirred above me and I headed to the action as fast as my wooden clogs would take me. With shows from Podenco, World Family, Kurru Kurru and Felt by Natalie to name but a few, this was one Ibizan event that stimulated the fashion palate and created desire afresh for some of the delectable creations on show.

From sunset to dusk to a full golden spotlight on it’s glorious ‘runway’ Atzaro met the challenge head on over two evenings and produced one after the other sight for sore eyes. The audience was just as colourful as the collections and I got chatting to another couple: Francisco de Barcelona and Maria informed me they’d been together for ’10 years’ but that they weren’t ‘jealous’. I was still trying to work it out when he called after me “I need your telephone number! When I go to Dublin then I’ll give you a call!” Past the ethereal Podenco dogs and sundry other interesting sights and I was finally back in the quiet of the restaurant at this classy hotel. “How’s it going, Nick?” I asked. “Busy. Busy” he said. “Tell me about it” I said, “But, as the saying goes ‘Genius is one percent inspiration, ninety-nine percent perspiration'”. Thanks to Rachel and the Atzaro team for a splendid time. Soundtrack tune ; ) : http://bit.ly/1nwKdFn

The earth mother ship

On July 21, 2014December 4, 2014 By Conversations with StrangersIn Food and drinks, Ibiza, People you may have heard ofLeave a comment

I’ve wanted to go to Casita Verde for 19 years now but somehow it never happened – until yesterday.

‘Register at reception’ we were told, ‘Pay €10 and then eat some good food!’

Satiated by a homemade aloe vera juice boosted with lemon and a plate of about as organic as you can get food, we gazed at the valley in front leading on to the sea in the distance and I wondered if it could get any better.

“Would anyone like a tour?” came the call from the founder of this most magical place. Would anyone like a tour! I turned to T, “I always love the guided part of these trips – it’s my favourite bit.” “YES” we replied from our table with a view as we made our way towards Chris. I’d noticed him giving a friend a hug earlier, and it wasn’t lost on me. “He looks like a pretty good hugger, T, but I reckon I could challenge him on that one.”

We looked at a yurt, the ecological loos, the compost from the ecological loos, the media centre made of aluminium cans and various other recycled components – or was that the outdoor shower? I can’t remember, it was all so fantastic, so utterly inventive that my beached-up brain struggled to take it all in.

Chris told us the main project for the Autumn was a rocket stove fuelled sauna – the very name stimulated my imagination.

We took a break in a bolt hole up the mountain. It was quite a pad – a view that would make it hard to get out of bed in the morning it was so stupendous, as Chris continued to fill us in.

“This is like a ship on earth basically. No cables come into Casita Verde – we just use radio, that gets us the internet and any other kind of telecommunications we need. Our electricity comes from solar panels, and of course that’s how we heat the water. Unfortunately we’re 60% down on rainfall this year in Ibiza so we have to buy in thousands of litres – but every drop of it gets recycled on this site.”

On passing yet another house on the hill I spotted a kitchen at one end. “People always love to congregate in the kitchen at parties, so we built one with a dance floor made out of wooden pallets. It was originally supposed to be for yoga – but more people like dancing – so we put a DJ down at one end, make pizzas and dance!”

A carob coffee later and a boogie with Mike the master mixer on one of the the most magnificent dance floors I’ve ever had the honour to tread and it was time for home.

As we said our goodbyes I turned to face Chris. “I just wanted to say – how would you feel about a ‘hug-off’?” We held on to each other in a 10 out of 10 hug that had me almost relinquishing my crown.

What’s in a name?

On June 24, 2014December 4, 2014 By Conversations with StrangersIn Ibiza, Life, Travel/vacationsLeave a comment

It was early. Very early for Ibiza, but when you’re on a tight schedule with work to do and a beach bicycle to procure – needs must.

San Jordi Flea Market was quiet at 10am on a Saturday morning. “Right, I think last week the bikes were over by the fence” T said. The boys started to head in that direction but I broke off. “Back here at 11am, S” A instructed.

I left them to it, after all there can be no finer experts in this particular type of hunting than a couple of mountain bike trail blazers.

Sunshine shone on an assortment of stalls offering everything from tablecloths to vintage record players, ornamental ducks to jewellery, books, clothes, and dolphin clocks. This was a market with everything.

One €1.30 coffee later, I spied the boys. “Any luck?” I asked. “Yeah, well we found one but it’s overpriced and he won’t give it to us for any less.” “How much?” “€40. But there could be any number of things wrong with it – and we don’t want to get a call from you saying: ‘Pick me up, the chain’s come off.’” A said.

“It was a good bike” said T slowly.

We went to take a look at her. There was a fair amount of standing around, hands on hips, investigating further. “Take her for a spin, S. See what you think.” I thought she was mighty fine – but I feel at home on practically any bicycle so I was in my element. “I’ll give you something towards it on the grounds I can use it when I’m here over the summer.”

The deal was done and I cycled her back to the van. “How about Betswana for a name” T asked. “Hmmm, not sure.” I lifted her into the back of the Ford Transit and A propped her up carefully.

Next stop was the beach. “Fancy jumping off some rocks today S?” A asked. “No! Definitely not!” T turned around and smiled. “How about we call her ‘Sarah’?” I shrieked with delight. A took a while to respond. “Yeah, okay, that’s a nice name for her” he concurred.

Back at the casa early evening I ventured towards the garage. The boys were about eight beers down and Sarah was propped up in a faint state of disarray. “We’ve stripped her down; the grease had turned into glue – like sap from a tree. She’s looking sweet now though. Want to take her for a spin?”

A night out with the locals

On June 20, 2014December 4, 2014 By Conversations with StrangersIn Entertainment, Ibiza, Life, Parties, People you may have heard of, Travel/vacationsLeave a comment

Things happen in Ibiza. Nice people pick you up from the side of the road at Es Caliu restaurant and take you to VIP at the hottest gig in town.

“Who is this guy?” I asked my hostess once in the car. “You know” she replied, “He sings that song: “I need to know now, need to know now, can you love me again?” “Oh, yes, I do know it!” “He’s phenomenal” she said.

We drove through the wilds of the Ibizan countryside towards the setting sun and the even wilder environs of San Antonio.

On arrival at Ibiza Rocks Hotel we were yellow wristbanded and ascended to the VIP area. Upstairs from the balcony, we took a view – literally. From our premium vantage point we could see the by now infamous swimming pool and a young buoyant crowd, eager to see their peer perform.

It was so happening, with the buzz of a singer about to appear on stage who I feel we’ll be hearing about for years to come, that I struggled to keep up.

The charisma of John Newman’s performance was something to behold. A strong voice, a unique look and a way with words: “I know you’re all here for the week you’ve saved up all year for – so let’s ‘ave it tonight!”

Hands were in the air and R – the hostess with the mostest turned to me excitedly: “This is it! This is the song!” Everyone sang along to an anthem less intangible than those of the 90’s – closer to the heart, and transmitted from a man who wears his on his sleeve – enhanced by a voice that’s still in my head today.

The after party took place at a small rustic hotel, deserving of a guided tour such is its history on this island. I stood in reception and took in the illustrious photographs adorning the walls.

Suddenly there was a commotion at the entrance. I heard the the Northern tones of a dominant force and immediately made my way through the fray to introduce myself.

“For goodness sake, how old are you with a voice like that?” “I’m 24” he replied. He smelled lovely, hair slicked back with a blonde streak, a gold necklace around his neck ..and I spotted some white socks. “Are they a tribute to Michael?” I asked. “No! Don’t look at the feet!” “But I love your look! It’s different. Where did you get that interesting pendant though?”

“Thank you” he said. “I try, I try. Oh…I designed the necklace myself.”

Of course he did. It goes without saying.